Installing board

And should I use trim to ease the visual transition between the beadboard and the ceiling? One option is to install it as wainscoting , where the beadboard panel covers only a portion of the wall. Your local home improvement retail chain store likely stocks beadboard made of solid wood, plywood, medium density fiberboard MDF , and maybe even vinyl.

Prices vary by material as well as by dimensions. That will ensure a reveal, albeit a narrow one, at the point where your beadboard meets the door molding.

Apply a thin bead of caulk to fill the narrow gap between the beadboard and the molding. Where the beadboard meets the ceiling, you have a couple of options: Either use the caulk gun again or add a trim transition. If you intend to install beadboard, whether in the bath or any other space, these are some tips to bear in mind:.

Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. Cut out any drywall that has been hung over window or door frames. Fasten the drywall down around the window or door, and then cut out the proper section using a rotary drill or drywall saw.

Part 5. Mix your initial coat of drywall compound, or mud, to the consistency of sour cream. Having the first coat of mud, which you'll apply directly over the seam, a bit runnier than normal will allow the tape to bond well with the mud.

Use a drywall knife to apply a liberal amount of mud to a seam. You don't have to worry about getting it perfect the first time through; you'll wipe off the excess after you apply the tape. Make sure you cover the seam entirely. Put drywall tape over the entire joint you applied the mud to. Use your 6" or 8" drywall putty knife to flatten the tape, starting at one end and pulling towards you in one smooth motion.

You don't need to soak it down too much. Some contractors avoid the perforated and fiber tapes, as they don't produce a flawless finish and require gobs of extra mud and sanding to get the job done right. Do what works best for you and fits in your budget. Wipe off the mud around the tape with your drywall knife.

Wipe off excess mud so the surface of the seam is smooth and flattened. Inspect your recently taped joint for air bubbles. Wet your blade and flatten then out with another swipe if needed. For corner beads, consider using a corner tool that is available for both inside and outside corners. This will give your job a professional finish. Apply mud and tape in a similar manner.

Apply liberal amount of compound. If it isn't already, crease your tape perfectly in the center and reinforce the crease a couple of times. Apply the tape so that the center of the crease fits directly into the corner of the wall. Wipe away excess compound with your drywall knife. Apply at least two to three more coats using a slightly wider putty knife for each application. Let the mud dry between each coat. It will bubble if you rush it! Many thin coats of mud will give you better results, but patience is required to let it dry.

Don't apply any mud over freshly taped joints. Allow them to thoroughly dry for one day between coats unless you are using hot mud that will dry in an hour. A great idea is to use pink mud that dries white, indicating it is ready for another coat. Don't forget to apply a swipe coat over each screw. You shouldn't notice any edges after screening the mud over a joint line or screw dimple.

Make sure to hold the blade flat against the drywall and pull towards you in smooth but firm strokes. Practice on an old piece of drywall to refine your technique. Part 6. Use a pole sander with drywall sandpaper to sand the hard-to-reach joints after the final coat has dried. Don't get carried away and sand until you expose the paper. This step goes quickly because the mud will sand off easily. Use a handheld drywall sander with fine-grit sandpaper to hit everything else.

Again, caution is key here. A quick couple of scrapes over the joints is all you need. With a handheld light and pencil, go over any surface with compound on it and inspect for flaws. The light will help you spot imperfections. Circle any problem areas with the pencil. Use a sponge sander or hand sander to briefly hit any flawed areas. Prime the walls, then sand again. Apply a coat of primer to the walls, then sand the entire area lightly using a pole sander.

Although most beginners skip this step, it's critical for getting a nice, even finish and for avoiding fuzzy paper residue and fluff left over from the initial sanding.

Don't over-sand. Sanding can be satisfying and fun, but sometimes people sand unnecessarily, sanding through tape. If this happens, apply some more mud and re-sand it when it dries. James Mansfield. Use a dedicated sheetrock gun—it works on pressure, so the bit won't spin until you put pressure on the screw. Also, go with a cordless drill—you won't get caught up in the cable and it's a lot easier.

You also need a good quality framing square, lots of sharp knives, and an accurate laser tape measure. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. After the tape has dried, run drywall mud about a quarter inch deep on both sides of the tape. Use paper tape -- mesh will crack on the butts. Let it dry, sand out the lap marks and reapply the mud two more times, sanding between coats. Not Helpful 6 Helpful Sure, as long as you don't insulate the cottage and thereby trap moisture and breed mold.

Personally, I'd install cement board instead, as it is stronger and won't be affected by humidity. Either way, do it right. The only right way to install anything on the walls is vertically or parallel with studs, joists, or rafters if framed conventionally.

Not Helpful 6 Helpful 5. Thin cardboard strips used for shimming uneven walls before hanging drywall can often be found in the drywall section of stores. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 3. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.

By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Drywall breaks easily, so when you carry it, don't let the middle bow down too much. Helpful 19 Not Helpful You Might Also Like How to.

How to. Expert Interview. More References 2. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: May 27, Categories: Drywall. Article Summary X To install drywall, start by removing all of the old drywall, nails, screws, and anything else that will prevent the new drywall sheets from laying flat against the studs.

Italiano: Installare il Cartongesso. Bahasa Indonesia: Memasang Gipsum. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. The removing drywall and the installing and finishing sections were to the point and wonderfully helpful. I felt very prepared to work after reading through the instructions. I'll definitely use this website again.

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